In extraordinarily general terms, there are 3 general plans used. You need to be agile enough to switch game plans quickly as the course of the match unfolds.
The Blockade
This involves creating a 6-deep wall of pieces, or at a minimum as deep as you are able to manage, to block in the competitor’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most suitable course of action at the begining of the match. You can assemble the wall anyplace inbetween your eleven-point and your two-point and then shift it into your home board as the match progresses.
The Blitz
This is comprised of locking your home board as fast as possible while keeping your opposer on the bar. For example, if your opposer tosses an early two and shifts one checker from your one-point to your three-point and you then roll a 5-5, you can play 6/1 6/1 8/3 eight/three. Your opponent is now in big-time trouble since they have two pieces on the bar and you have locked half your home board!
The Backgame
This plan is where you have 2 or higher pieces in your opponent’s inner board. (An anchor spot is a point filled by at a minimum 2 of your pieces.) It would be employed when you are significantly behind as it much improves your circumstances. The better locations for anchor spots are close to your opponent’s lower points and also on adjoining points or with one point separating them. Timing is crucial for an effective backgame: besides, there’s no reason having two nice anchors and a solid wall in your own inner board if you are then forced to dismantle this right away, while your competitor is getting their checkers home, seeing that you do not have other extra checkers to shift! In this case, it’s more favorable to have pieces on the bar so that you are able to preserve your position up until your competitor provides you a chance to hit, so it may be a great idea to attempt and get your challenger to get them in this situation!