In exceptionally general terms, there are three main strategies employed. You need to be able to switch strategies quickly as the course of the match unfolds.
The Blockade
This involves creating a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at least as deep as you might manage, to lock in the competitor’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is considered to be the most suitable strategy at the begining of the match. You can assemble the wall anywhere between your eleven-point and your two-point and then shuffle it into your home board as the game continues.
The Blitz
This is composed of locking your home board as quick as possible while keeping your opponent on the bar. For example, if your competitor tosses an early two and shifts one checker from your one-point to your three-point and you then toss a 5-5, you will be able to play 6/1 six/one eight/three 8/3. Your challenger is now in serious difficulty because they have two pieces on the bar and you have locked half your home board!
The Backgame
This strategy is where you have 2 or more pieces in your competitor’s inner board. (An anchor is a position occupied by at least 2 of your checkers.) It should be played when you are significantly behind as this plan greatly improves your opportunities. The best areas for anchors are towards your opponent’s lower points and either on adjoining points or with one point in between. Timing is integral for a competent backgame: after all, there is no point having 2 nice anchor spots and a solid wall in your own inner board if you are then forced to dismantle this straight away, while your competitor is getting their checkers home, seeing that you don’t have any other additional pieces to move! In this situation, it’s more tolerable to have pieces on the bar so that you can maintain your position until your competitor provides you a chance to hit, so it will be a great idea to try and get your competitor to hit them in this situation!