In astonishingly simple terms, there are three basic strategies employed. You must be agile enough to hop between game plans quickly as the course of the game unfolds.
The Blockade
This is composed of assembling a 6-thick wall of pieces, or at a minimum as deep as you can manage, to lock in your competitor’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is deemed to be the most acceptable procedure at the begining of the game. You can build the wall anyplace inbetween your eleven-point and your two-point and then move it into your home board as the match continues.
The Blitz
This is composed of closing your home board as fast as possible while keeping your competitor on the bar. e.g., if your opposer tosses an early 2 and shifts one checker from your 1-point to your three-point and you then toss a five-five, you will be able to play six/one six/one eight/three eight/three. Your challenger is then in serious difficulty since they have two checkers on the bar and you have locked half your inner board!
The Backgame
This course of action is where you have two or higher pieces in your opponent’s inner board. (An anchor is a point occupied by at least 2 of your checkers.) It needs to be employed when you are extremely behind as this strategy much improves your chances. The strongest places for anchor spots are towards your competitor’s lower points and also on adjoining points or with a single point separating them. Timing is crucial for a powerful backgame: besides, there’s no reason having two nice anchor spots and a solid wall in your own inner board if you are then required to break apart this right away, while your competitor is getting their pieces home, seeing that you do not have other extra pieces to move! In this situation, it’s more tolerable to have pieces on the bar so that you are able to preserve your position up till your challenger provides you a chance to hit, so it can be an excellent idea to attempt and get your competitor to hit them in this situation!